14 hours in Lima, Peru — The Tripographer

An obligatory stop in Lima is part of most itineraries to Peru. In fact, I recommend that you spend a night on either end of your trip to Peru in Lima as flights in Peru are often delayed due to bad weather or can be overbooked. We spent 5 hours in Lima on our first night in Peru and another 5 hours in Lima on our last night in the country. We spent a final 4 hours in the city the next day prior to catching our flight. Here's what you should do with that time.

Despite its reputation as one of the gastronomical capitals of the world, Lima often receives bad press. Unlike the Argentinian capital of Buenos Aires, Lima does not exude charm. It is rough around the edges. Traffic is terrible. If you visit Lima in June through August, Lima's winter months (the northern hemisphere's summer, which corresponds to peak travel season), the city is likely to be covered by a thick, cold fog. Expect to see a lot of grey.

Your first evening in Lima

Most visitors to Lima stay in the Miraflores neighbourhood, one of the most affluent districts of Lima. To many travellers, Miraflores will feel like a downtown core: high rise buildings, traffic, lots of people and tons of tourists. There is also an odd proliferation of casinos in Miraflores. Needless to say, we expected a charming neighbourhood and, contrary to what the guidebooks had led us to believe, Miraflores does not exude charm.

But don't despair! Miraflores has two particularly amazing things going for it

Tip #1: Head to the Miraflores Boardwalk (the Malecón)

Lima is situated on the Pacific Ocean. When you drive in from the airport, you will likely pass miles and miles of coastline, beaches and jagged cliffs. It's a beautiful sight. This is a true highlight of the city and I highly recommend spending as much time as possible near the water.

From wherever you are staying in Miraflores, it is relatively easy to find your way to the Malecón, a stretch of parks along cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. The Malecón is perfect for walking, jogging and biking (you can rent bikes directly on the Malecón near the Larcomar shopping mall).

The views from the Malecón are breathtaking. You can observe surfers hoping to catch the next wave below the cliffs in the ocean or the parasailers floating in the breeze.

View from the Malecón onto the Pacific Ocean below. Those tiny dots in the water are surfers!

Floating above the crowds on the Malecón

The Malecón is also home to a dazzling amount of public art, including some beautiful mosaic tile work in the Parque del Amor, one of the more popular spots on the Malecón. The tile work is reminiscent of Antoni Gaudí, particularly his mosaic work on the main terrace of Park Güell in Barcelona, Spain.

The Parque del Amor also includes a monumental sculpture entitled "El Beso" by Víctor Delfín, a Peruvian sculptor. Needless to say, the sculpture attracts throngs of couples!

Tip #2: Experience Peruvian gastronomy in Miraflores

Lima's reputation as a capital of gastronomy means that there is no shortage of restaurants vying for your attention. The number of options can honestly feel overwhelming, especially if you will only be in Lima for a few nights. Many of the top tables can be found in Miraflores. Deciding on "where" to dine was a difficulty choice for us to make. If you are interested in experiencing the cuisine of some of the chefs that helped give Peruvian cuisine its international reputation, book a table well in advance.

On our first night in Lima, we dined at Amaz, a restaurant specializing in cuisine from the Amazon. Discovering the flavours of the Amazon at the beginning of our trip felt fitting because the Amazon actually covers 60% of Peru's land mass (we would also be visiting the Amazon ourselves in the not so distant future!).

Your second evening in Lima

The best advice I can give you for your second visit to Lima is the following: stay in the district of Barranco. Actually, if we were to redo our trip to Peru, we would skip staying in Miraflores altogether and stay in Barranco instead. Miraflores is a short taxi ride away.

Barranco is another oceanfront district in Lima, southeast of Miraflores. Unlike Miraflores, you will not find high rise buildings, generic stores and mobs of tourists here. Instead, you will find an actual neighbourhood. Barranco was once a very fashionable beach resort for wealthy Limeños. Today, Barranco is filled with beautiful homes, tree-lined streets, art galleries, local artists and trendy restaurants and bars.

During your evening in Barranco, I highly recommend checking out the stunning main square, the rather charming biblioteca (library), the Puente de los Suspiros (bridge of sighs) and the oceanfront malecón.

Your final morning in Lima

If you are flying back to North America, chances are your flight will be in the later afternoon. This gives you just enough time to visit one of the gems of Lima, the beautiful Museo Larco. The Museo Larco is a privately-owned museum of pre-Colombian art housed in an 18th century royal building and surrounded by a small, but lovely, courtyard. The museum also has a great restaurant located in this beautiful courtyard surrounded by bougainvillea and greenery.

If you are interested in art, pottery, textiles and closing your trip to Peru with a little bit of history and a garden lunch, the Museo Larco makes a nice stop on your way to the airport. The museum is located in the Pueblo Libre district of Lima, which, while generally feeling out of the way, is located about midway between Miraflores/Barranco and the airport. The museum will even store your luggage for you for free!