17 Days in Argentina

This itinerary is well suited for adventurous travellers who enjoy lingering in a few key destinations, but who still want to maximize their time in Argentina. I recommend that you complete this itinerary during the Argentinian summer months or in early autumn (December - March), to take advantage of the great weather in all the destinations covered. 

This itinerary could be extended by adding trips to other areas of Patagonia (Bariloche, Uschuaia, for example), northern Argentina (Salta) or Iguazu Falls, depending on your interests. 

Key Interests: Adventure; Food; Wine; Culture; Landscapes; Hiking; Relaxation

Buenos Aires

DAY 1: Fly into Buenos Aires. Stay in the Palermo neighbourhood (highly recommend Home, an incredible boutique hotel in the heart of the action, with fantastic staff and a dreamy pool and garden). Depending on the time at which your flight arrives, spend some time exploring the quaint streets of the neighbourhood and local businesses, or just relaxing in your accommodation. Dine at one of the many excellent restaurants in the neighbourhood. 

DAY 2: Take a cooking class (we had a great time with Norma) or participate in some other activity that jives with your interests (graffiti tours get rave reviews in BA). Spend the afternoon relaxing by the pool to cool off from the BA heat. Dine at one of the many excellent restaurants in Palermo. After dinner, grab a drink at one of the neighbourhood speakeasies. 

DAY 3: After breakfast, head "downtown" (the denser, more commercial neighbourhoods of BA). Start in Recoleta, one of the most affluent neighbourhoods of the city that is dominated by European-inspired architecture (they don't call BA the "Paris of South America" for no reason). In Recoleta, stop by the Flor De Lotto, an enormous flower sculpture, to see some of the great public art in BA. Then visit the famous Cementerio de la Recoleta. Most people will visit the cemetery to see Evita Perón's grave. Whether you find Evita or not (tip: follow the large tour groups), the design of the cemetery is neat to see (plus it's free). Afterwards, continue wandering south until you hit the Teatro Colón. The guided tour is worth the price as it allows you to see the inside of this spectacular opera house, ranked one of the best in the world. If you're still feeling up to it, walk a few blocks south until you reach Avenida de Mayo. This important East-West avenue in downtown BA is flanked with European-style architecture and connects many important political buildings in the city. On the western end you'll find the Argentinian congress, while on the eastern end you'll find the Plaza de Mayo (a hub for political demonstrations) and Casa Rosada, the office of the President of Argentina. Start on the western end of the avenue and make your way east. Once you've arrived at Casa Rosada, you can wander down to Puerto Madero, a rapidly changing trendy neighbourhood with interesting architecture. A sidewalk patio in Puerto Madero makes for a nice stop for lunch. Head back to Palermo, lounge by the pool, and then spend your evening wandering around Palermo. 

DAY 4: Wander further in Palermo and visit the enormous Bosques de Palermo. These public gardens are filled with public art and are a wonderful place to wander on a sunny day. They are also a good place to get a taste of life as a BA local, especially on the weekend. On the western edge of the park, there are a number of cute restaurants and shops where you can grab a bite to eat. You can also visit the nearby Japanese gardens. If you're feeling up to it, take a cab to the San Telmo neighbourhood, the oldest neighbourhood in BA. Saturday is the best day to visit this area, because the Mercado de San Telmo is in full swing. The neighbourhood is filled with colonial buildings and narrow cobblestone streets. It is an incredibly artistic neighbourhood and it is not uncommon to find individuals dancing the tango in the streets here. 

You'll have some final time in Buenos Aires on Day 16 and Day 17.

Patagonia

DAY 5: Fly to El Calafate, a 3-hour flight from BA. El Calafate is a small town that serves as a major tourist hub in Patagonia. Unless you take an early morning flight, you will probably arrive too late to head out to visit the main nearby attraction, the Perito Moreno glacier. El Calafate is a tiny town, so you can easily wander up and down the few streets in an hour or two. When you arrive in El Calafate, you should head straight to the bus station or one of the tour agencies in town to reserve bus tickets for Day 6 and Day 7 (the bus station is just above town and easily walkable from anywhere in central El Calafate). If you're looking for something active to do today, Kayak Santa Cruz offers an enjoyable late afternoon kayak trip on Lago Argentino. Enjoy dinner in El Calafate. 

DAY 6: Spend the day visiting the Perito Moreno glacier. While you can opt for an organized tour to get you out to the glacier (it's just over 70 kms from El Calafate), we found it quite easy to simply book a round-trip bus ticket to the glacier. The park at Perito Moreno can easily be explored on your own (clearly signposted walkways provide you with ample areas to wander on your own and explore the glacier). The bus will drop you off at the entrance of Perito Moreno and pick you up a number of hours later based on their schedule. Enjoy dinner in El Calafate. 

DAY 7: Take a morning bus to El Chaltén, about a 3 hour drive from El Calafate. El Chaltén is the hiking capital of Argentina, and the gateaway to the northern area of Los Glaciares National Park. How many days you spend in El Calafate will depend on how serious of a hiker you are. We spent four full days here, and were very happy with your decision. El Chaltén is a tiny town where the sole goal of all visitors is to spend time outdoors and hiking. You can walk to the trailheads for all trails easily from town. The town has a great vibe, especially in the evenings when the quaint restaurants fill up with tired hikers engaging in aprè-hike and sharing stories about their day. 

The two most popular full-day treks are 1) the Fitz Roy trek (20 kms; 6-7 hours roundtrip); and 2) the Cerro Torre trek (18 kms; 5-6 hours roundtrip). Both treks offer spectacular views, but if you only have time for one, I would suggest the Fitz Roy trek, although it is a harder trek. 

However, as you will arrive around mid-day on your first day, you can still do some easy hiking and take in some spectacular sights to get your legs moving before the next two days. Two recommended treks are 1) the Mirador de los Cóndores and the Mirador de las Águilas (4 kms; 1-2 hours roundtrip), which offers lovely views toward the nearby peaks and over the town of El Chaltén; and the 2) Chorillo del Salto trek (6kms, 2-3 hours roundtrip), which brings you to a small waterfall and provides spectacular views of a valley and river north of town.

DAY 8: Spend the day hiking in Los Glaciares National Park (Fitz Roy trek). The last portion of the hike is a steep uphill climb, but the view of Laguna de los Tres framing Fitz Roy is spectacular and worth the effort!

DAY 9: Spend the day hiking in Los Glaciares National Park (Cerro Torre trek). You'll have earned that après-hike pint or glass of full-bodied Argentinian red wine!

DAY 10: Complete one of the shorter hikes summarized on Day 7, then bus back to El Calafate from where you will catch a flight the next day to head to...

Mendoza

DAY 11: Fly to Mendoza. Despite some bad press, the centre of Mendoza and its central square is actually quite charming and happening. You can choose to stay in Mendoza proper or stay at one of the numerous wineries in the Mendoza region. The latter makes for a much more immersive stay in wine country. How many days you devote to your Mendoza trip will depend on how much you love wine. 

DAY 12: Visit wineries in the Uco Valley, a wine region southwest of Mendoza that is widely considered to be the top wine region of Argentina. A leisurely lunch at a winery is a must.

DAY 13: Time to stretch your legs a bit! Rent a bike and explore the wineries in and around Maipú.  

DAY 14: Take a day trip up into the Andes to visit Aconcagua National Park and the stunning scenery along the way. 

DAY 15: Visit wineries in Luján de Cuyo. Once again, a leisurely lunch at a winery is a must!

Buenos Aires

DAY 16: Fly back to Buenos Aires in the morning. Enjoy one final magical evening in Palermo and tuck in for another delicious meal in Argentina.  

DAY 17: Depending on what time your flight leaves at, you may have time for a quick visit to La Boca neighbourhood, in order to peak at the rows of colourful houses that can be found there (we crossed this out of our itinerary, as it seemed too touristy, and simply spent more time in... you guessed it... Palermo!).